The ambassadors of the Ore Mountains

You work in very different areas – what unites you is your extremely high quality standards. When did you first realise that you stood out from others in this respect?  

BU – There was no one key moment. It’s a question of temperament and character, so it’s partly genetic and partly something I’ve acquired. I cut my teeth in very good restaurants all over the world. When I came back to Aue, I told my father, who ran our hotel and restaurant at the time, that “I didn’t go travelling to make fried potatoes here”.  

AM – For me, ambition is something that’s inside me. It doesn’t come from comparing myself with others, but is something that’s bubbling away inside me, that I want to put into practice. There are certain things that lift me up and inspire me. And they all have a quality that I want to see reflected in our Mühle products. 

BU – Of course, before quality standards. there’s the question as to whether you can make a living from what you do. After all, we don’t have a group in the background that pumps us full of gold bars. So you first need firm foundations in order to develop quality.

AM – Absolutely. My brother and I took over a company that was already in a healthy position. That was the only reason why we had the freedom to think about investing in certain projects. After reunification, my father simply continued to produce shaving brushes due to a lack of alternatives. Our sales markets in the Eastern Bloc had collapsed and the companies in the West had been established for decades. So it was clear that we only stood a chance of competing if we offered high quality for competitive prices.

Do you sometimes find your own quality standards annoying? You probably don’t just have this in your own field of activity, but also in other areas.

AM – In my garden, yes. It’s my counterpoint to MÜHLE – it’s rarely tidy and has a mind of its own. I have to be patient and only have limited influence, which I quite like, too. I think I have two poles within me – the perfectionist and the chaotic one. At the company, the standards don’t get on my nerves. I feel satisfied when we do something well. 

BU – It’s a similar story for me. I want to achieve a certain quality in my work, but I can let go of that in my private life.

So it doesn’t always have to be the perfect hotel, restaurant or item of clothing? 

BU – No, not at all! That goes for clothes in particular. I’m pretty bad on that score. Anyone who is acquainted with me in a private capacity knows that I’m more than happy to turn up to a birthday party in jogging bottoms. I can really let things slide.

And eat a bockwurst or a kebab? 

BU – Not so much bockwurst – and the kebab has got to be good. 

When was the last time you were really annoyed about poor quality? 

 BU – That happens to me all the time. 

AM – I make an effort to surround myself with high-quality things; that’s what quality of life is all about in my opinion. That doesn’t mean that I stay at luxury hotels. But it’s nice to treat yourself to good food. I also choose carefully what’s in my home – we have to look at it every day after all. 

Are your children learning from you about what quality means?

AM – On the one hand, I hope I’m moulding them, but on the other, I don’t know if that’s so good for them.

Why not? 

AM – Because I feel that simplicity and modesty are important values. Plus the children are growing up in a very rich environment and are taking a lot for granted. 

Could they also acquire a certain mindfulness and appreciation thanks to you?

AM – That’s precisely what’s very, very important. 

BU – It’s a similar story at our end. The children are well protected as they grow up…

AM – … Even though your son has to help out at an early age. I think that’s admirable. 

BU – Yes, he’s registered with a tax number like anyone else, has to fill in his timesheet and gets his money transferred to his bank account. He should know that none of this just falls into our laps. This helps him grow into the company without any pressure.

You both work together with your brothers. Did working in the family business just happen, or do you think it’s the best form of business? 

BU – Everything has its pluses and minuses. A family is the smallest type of business, and you can’t just quit. You need to have a clear structure. I’d gladly do it all again with my brother. We have a good symbiosis, and we wouldn’t be where we are now without that. 

AM – Basically, I’d rather be a creative director on the company payroll working from home. (Both laugh) No, of course you have a lot of creative freedom in a family business because you’re responsible for everything – from the initial idea for a product to the packaging and marketing, as well as the values that the company embodies. I’m very lucky to work with my brother Christian because he’s an enormously relaxed and generous person.

Benjamin, you’re an ambassador for the Ore Mountains with your cuisine. What’s typical for the region about it? 

BU – The cuisine of the Ore Mountains is poor man’s fare. Mining has left its mark on the region. A classic dish is “Neunerlei”, which is served on Christmas Eve and the first and sixth of January, so Epiphany. It has nine ingredients, all of which are symbolic. The buttermilk stands for pure white skin, sauerkraut for the straw, “Fratzen” – potato pancakes – for great wealth … For the gourmet restaurant, we take the component parts of this traditional cuisine and reinterpret them from the ground up with new techniques. 

So you also serve a farmer’s breakfast or “Bauernfrühstück”. What does that look like?  

BU – It’s one of our signature dishes consisting of 20 ingredients: potatoes, eggs, onions, gherkins, herbs, etc. And then we make something out of this.

AM – It always sounds so simple and down-to-earth. Benjamin emerges from the kitchen, saying “there’s this herb – I’ve extracted the essence from it”. Or he tries to ferment things and skilfully combine them. And I think, wow, all that inspiration in your mouth. It doesn’t just taste good, but you can also taste the intention behind it. That’s phenomenal.

Did the Michelin-star give you a further motivational boost?

BU – We already had that boost beforehand. We’ve developed our very own style over the past year and a half.

AM – You’ve become even more creative and refined.  

The region here is known for not growing much due to the harsh climate. Does it take a lot of creativity to cook at a high level with regional ingredients?

AM – It’s a very barren region. People here have always tried to preserve what little grows and to live off the forest. Berries feature prominently, as do mushrooms. 

BU – We now have a dish on the menu featuring fermented birch leaves, as well as a sorbet made from lilac blossoms – you have to process them in a very precise way to make them edible at all. Here in the Ore Mountains, I don’t have to put freshly fished loup de mer or lobster on the menu. Rockfish sourced from local waters also does the job. We’re essentially doing what people used to do here – collecting, preserving and fermenting. 

Each time we come to you from the city, we enjoy the open countryside and the amount of space you have here. To what extent do these factors influence your creativity? 

AM – You can do quite a lot here, like keep sheep or horses – you couldn’t do that in the city. The amount of space creates a balance. When I joined the company, I was constantly travelling and often stayed at hotels. But at some point, I realised that I was missing something. Walking barefoot, being in the garden, swimming in the river – that does me a power of good.

BU – The city is all hustle and bustle; you have to do everything, be hip. Here, people hold firm to tradition, which can be a haven of peace. For me, the city isn’t a place that energises me. 

AM – I feel differently. As much as I need the peace and solace here, I also need the energy you get in cities. 

The Ore Mountains are your home – you were born and raised here. What does home mean to you?

BU – For me, home is primarily a feeling. 

AM – And it does something to you. There are so many places here that are bound up with memories and stories, including those of previous generations.

You both also act as ambassadors for the Ore Mountains. What tasks does this involve?

BU – Aue has a football club that people are familiar with. In terms of public image, however, our restaurant is next on the list. We’re featured in all the restaurant guides, and a lot of articles have been published about us. In this respect, we had already fulfilled this role before receiving the title – namely making the Ore Mountains known beyond the region. For me, this title is, first and foremost, a great honour that fills me with pride.